The atmosphere encompassing Full Circle farm undoubtedly fulfilled my romantic image of small-town organic agriculture: the classic red barn, the colorful flowers lining walkways, the wooden bridge, the lantern-guided pathways, the antiquated tractor in the field, the painted Adirondack chairs on the patio, and the indescribable view into the valley. After taking in the scenery, I was prepared to pack my bags, withdraw all my money, and begin my life as a farmer.
Around 4:30, the guests began to arrive at the farm, gently greeted by colorful flowers, friendly staff, and gorgeous scenery. The sun, as it often is in Washington at 4:30pm, was still high overhead, perhaps surprisingly warm for June, but giving good reason to cool off under the shade of trees or patio umbrellas. The guests waltzed onto the patio and were greeted with a Piccola Cellars Pinot Noir Rose, tea-smoked weathervane scallops, and roasted apricots with chevre. Chef for the evening, Peter Birk of Boka Restaurant in Seattle, snuck around the corner into the reception area to harvest fresh mint for the appetizers. He spoke of his excitement about the meal ahead: the timing allowed him to combine seasons with the last cardoons of spring next to summer cherries. As a staff member working the event, I was thoroughly impressed with the friendly, laid-back, and accommodating disposition of Peter and his kitchen staff. I can only imagine the seamlessness with which Boka is run.
Full Circle Farm owner Andrew Stout, who graciously opened up his property for the occasion, led the dinner attendees on a tour around the farm before dinner, pointing out the facilities, practices, and their products. In addition to the greenhouses, compost system, and production fields, Farmer Andrew talked about the cultural significance of the property to local native peoples and the role the farm plays now as habitat to salmon, bald eagles, and a host of other creatures. After the tour, guests were lead across a small wooden bridge and around a corner, giving them their first view of their dinner table. Fresh flowers in blue mason jars, crisp white china and linen, votive candles, seed packets, small lemon poppy-seed cookies, and baskets of local sourdough bread garnished the long dinner table, and as the sun peeked through the trees, the table prepared guests for the enchanting evening ahead.
Dinner began shortly after six, commencing with a beautiful Southard Winery 2010 Columbia Valley White Wine. Plates of kale salad with sunflower seeds, golden raisins, Samish Bay montasio, and saba, with the kale coming from the very own Full Circle Farm. The kale was crisp and flavorful, and graciously promoted the cyclical aspects of local food production and consumption (Dare I say that the meal came “Full Circle”?)
The second course was an asparagus dish served with Local Roots Farm Tokyo turnips, pink beauty radishes, red romaine, and Yarmuth Farm Creamery “Dylan.” The asparagus was provided by the renowned Merv, “the asparagus guy” in the Yakima Valley, who delivers fresh asparagus to small Seattle restaurants. As guests savored the variety of flavors in the dish, they sipped a 2009 Southard Winery Lawrence Vineyard Roussane, and mentally prepared for the main course.
While the first two dishes were indisputably incredible, Chef Birk was not about to give anything but his best for the main course. The marbled Chinook salmon from Neah Bay was cooked to perfection and full of flavor. Fortunately, as the salmon was quickly disappearing, a second platter was brought out for those wishing to have another taste. The delectable salmon was accompanied by fresh Oxbow Farm cardoons, rainbow chard, pine nuts, and a Bing cherry sauce. Southard Winery provided a 2010 Sugarloaf Vineyard Red Wine.
Chef Birk kept dessert light, yet decadent. Crisp white bowls served the luscious, crimson Spooner Farm strawberries. Having tasted some of the strawberries, I must say, few things could compare to their ripeness and flavor. Along with the strawberries, Chef Birk served black pepper shortbread and chocolate “mussels” made from Theo 70% cacao chocolate. Guests enjoyed a Southard Winery 2010 Lawrence Vineyard Red Wine, and coffee or tea to conclude the dinner.
The entirety of the event promoted the simple act that we learn in kindergarten – sharing. An impressive, skilled chef and kitchen staff sharing his recipes with appreciative guests. Local farmers like Full Circle Farm, Oxbow Farm, and Local Roots Farm sharing their produce to help create a gourmet meal. Full Circle Farm sharing their grounds and knowledge with such hospitality, allowing the community to gather and learn a little more about their work on the farm. Community members and guests sharing a meal together, and inevitably, sharing thoughts, opinions, ideas, and stories. I was honored to be able to witness such moments throughout the evening, where guests were passing food, telling each other of their thoughts of travel, education, and current events, or sharing stories about their experiences mountaineering and hiking. With every bite of food, guests learn more about each other; we share pieces of ourselves when we share our food.
I am looking forward to seeing the next two dinners in this summer’s series unfold: July 13th at Oxbow Farm and August 17th at Stuart Landing Farms.